1954 VOLTAGE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT

The voltage regulator on all 1954 Buicks has a different internal wiring arrangement from that used on previous Buick voltage regulators. The new voltage regulator requires a different method of adjustment than previously used.

Since we are planning to use the new type voltage regulator for service, one of the new methods of checking must be used on all Buick 6-volt and 12- volt voltage regulators used with shunt type generators.

NOTE: The new methods of checking are suitable for old type regulators but the old fixed resistance method is not suitable, and must not be used for 1954 voltage regulators or on any replacement regulator.

VOLTAGE SETTING (6 or 12-volt system)
(1/4 ohm method)

(Optional with Variable Resistance Method):

  1. Disconnect the wire at the “Bat.” terminal of the voltage regulator and connect a 1/4 ohm resistor (not less than 25 watts) between the disconnected wire and the “Bat.” terminal.
  2. Connect a voltmeter between the regulator ” Bat.” terminal and the base of the regulator.
  3. Operate the engine at approximately 1500 rpm for 15 minutes. Regulator cover must be in place. (This is important as the regulator must be at operating temperature).
    NOTE: It is not necessary to measure the amount of current flowing during testing and adjusting. How­ ever, it is important that no electrical load other than ignition be turned on during test.
  4. Cycle the generator by reducing the engine speed to curb idle and then bringing engine speed back up to 1500 rpm. Note voltage reading – it should be between 7.2 and 7.7 volts for a 6-volt system or between 14 and 15 volts for a 12-volt system.
  5. To adjust voltage setting turn the adjusting screw as shown in Figure 58.
    1954 Buick Voltage Regulator Adjustment

    1954 Buick Voltage Regulator Adjustment

    Turn clockwise to increase voltage setting and counter clockwise to decrease voltage setting.

CAUTION: If adjusting screw is turned down (clockwise) beyond range, spring support may not return when screw is backed off. In such case, turn screw counter clockwise until there is ample clearance between screw head and spring support. Then bend spring support up carefully until it touches the screw head. Final setting of the unit should always be made by increasing spring tension, never by reducing it. If setting is too high, adjust unit below required value and then raise to exact setting by increasing spring tension. After each adjustment and before taking reading replace the regulator cover and cycle the generator.

VOLTAGE SETTING (6 or 12-volt system) (Variable Resistance Method)

(Optional with 1/4 ohm method):

  1. Disconnect the wire at the “Bat.” terminal of the voltage regulator and connect a variable resistance (not less than 25-watts) and an ammeter between the disconnected wire and the “Bat.” terminal.
  2. Connect a voltmeter between the regulator “Bat.” terminal and the base of the regulator.
  3. Operate the engine at approximately 1500 rpm and adjust the variable resistance to obtain a current flow of not more than 10-amperes. Operate the engine at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes. Regulator cover must be in place. (This is important as the regulator must be at operating temperature).
  4. Cycle the generator as explained in step 4 under 1/4 ohm resistance method.
  5. Adjust voltage setting as required, as explained in step 5 under 1/4 ohm resistance method.

The cutout relay and current regulator are to be checked in the same manner as previously outlined in the 1953 Buick Shop Manual.

NOTE: It is imperative when using either of the above procedures, that a battery be used in the circuit. This applies to all ’53 and ’54 regulators.

GLOVE COMPARTMENT LIGHT BULB FAILURE
1954 ALL MODELS

To eliminate glove compartment light filament failure on 1954 models, bulb No. 57 Part No. 127934 is being replaced with bulb No. 57X Part No. 273157. Will you please make this correction in your records and specifications in order to increase owner satisfaction.

NOISY SPEEDOMETERS
1954 SERIES 50 & 70

  1. Before doing any work on the speedometer installation, make a check to determine that the noise in question is coming from the speedometer or cable and not from some other source. To do this, jack the rear wheels off the floor and run the car slowly from 0 to 50 MPH and back to zero. Then, with the brakes applied, shift the transmission to neutral or park and slowly run through the same engine speed range as before. lf the noise is still present, the cause is something other than the speedometer or cable. Close the car windows during test to keep outside noises from interfering.
  2. If the noise disappears during the run in neutral or park, the clicking noise is coming from the speedometer or drive cable. Inspect the cable assembly from end to end. Replace if damaged. (See paragraph 6) If the cable assembly is out of the clip on the dash-to-frame brace, fasten it in the clip and straighten any bends that are sharper than the normal curvature of the cable. Check upper and lower cable coupling nuts. If they are loose, tighten them.
  3. Following the procedure of step 1, again check for clicking noise. If noise condition has been corrected, two more precautionary measures (step 4, 5) are recommended to prevent the cable from being damaged. If noise is still present, proceed to step 6.
  4. If the plastic tubing on the speedometer cable casing runs all the way to the ferrule at the transmission end, slide it 6-inches toward the speedo­ meter and tape the upper end to the cable casting to hold it in place. This will prevent cable failure due to water collecting and freezing in the lower end of the casing.
  5. Install speedometer cable gravel deflector, Gr. 4.342 Part No. 1167077, see Figure 59, if the car is not already equipped with this part.