1954 VOLTAGE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT
The voltage regulator on all 1954 Buicks has a different internal wiring arrangement from that used on previous Buick voltage regulators. The new voltage regulator requires a different method of adjustment than previously used.
Since we are planning to use the new type voltage regulator for service, one of the new methods of checking must be used on all Buick 6-volt and 12- volt voltage regulators used with shunt type generators.
NOTE: The new methods of checking are suitable for old type regulators but the old fixed resistance method is not suitable, and must not be used for 1954 voltage regulators or on any replacement regulator.
VOLTAGE SETTING (6 or 12-volt system)
(1/4 ohm method)
(Optional with Variable Resistance Method):
- Disconnect the wire at the “Bat.” terminal of the voltage regulator and connect a 1/4 ohm resistor (not less than 25 watts) between the disconnected wire and the “Bat.” terminal.
- Connect a voltmeter between the regulator ” Bat.” terminal and the base of the regulator.
- Operate the engine at approximately 1500 rpm for 15 minutes. Regulator cover must be in place. (This is important as the regulator must be at operating temperature).
NOTE: It is not necessary to measure the amount of current flowing during testing and adjusting. How ever, it is important that no electrical load other than ignition be turned on during test.
- Cycle the generator by reducing the engine speed to curb idle and then bringing engine speed back up to 1500 rpm. Note voltage reading – it should be between 7.2 and 7.7 volts for a 6-volt system or between 14 and 15 volts for a 12-volt system.
- To adjust voltage setting turn the adjusting screw as shown in Figure 58.
Turn clockwise to increase voltage setting and counter clockwise to decrease voltage setting.
CAUTION: If adjusting screw is turned down (clockwise) beyond range, spring support may not return when screw is backed off. In such case, turn screw counter clockwise until there is ample clearance between screw head and spring support. Then bend spring support up carefully until it touches the screw head. Final setting of the unit should always be made by increasing spring tension, never by reducing it. If setting is too high, adjust unit below required value and then raise to exact setting by increasing spring tension. After each adjustment and before taking reading replace the regulator cover and cycle the generator.
VOLTAGE SETTING (6 or 12-volt system) (Variable Resistance Method)
(Optional with 1/4 ohm method):
- Disconnect the wire at the “Bat.” terminal of the voltage regulator and connect a variable resistance (not less than 25-watts) and an ammeter between the disconnected wire and the “Bat.” terminal.
- Connect a voltmeter between the regulator “Bat.” terminal and the base of the regulator.
- Operate the engine at approximately 1500 rpm and adjust the variable resistance to obtain a current flow of not more than 10-amperes. Operate the engine at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes. Regulator cover must be in place. (This is important as the regulator must be at operating temperature).
- Cycle the generator as explained in step 4 under 1/4 ohm resistance method.
- Adjust voltage setting as required, as explained in step 5 under 1/4 ohm resistance method.
The cutout relay and current regulator are to be checked in the same manner as previously outlined in the 1953 Buick Shop Manual.
NOTE: It is imperative when using either of the above procedures, that a battery be used in the circuit. This applies to all ’53 and ’54 regulators.
GLOVE COMPARTMENT LIGHT BULB FAILURE
1954 ALL MODELS
To eliminate glove compartment light filament failure on 1954 models, bulb No. 57 Part No. 127934 is being replaced with bulb No. 57X Part No. 273157. Will you please make this correction in your records and specifications in order to increase owner satisfaction.
1954 SERIES 50 & 70
- Before doing any work on the speedometer installation, make a check to determine that the noise in question is coming from the speedometer or cable and not from some other source. To do this, jack the rear wheels off the floor and run the car slowly from 0 to 50 MPH and back to zero. Then, with the brakes applied, shift the transmission to neutral or park and slowly run through the same engine speed range as before. lf the noise is still present, the cause is something other than the speedometer or cable. Close the car windows during test to keep outside noises from interfering.
- If the noise disappears during the run in neutral or park, the clicking noise is coming from the speedometer or drive cable. Inspect the cable assembly from end to end. Replace if damaged. (See paragraph 6) If the cable assembly is out of the clip on the dash-to-frame brace, fasten it in the clip and straighten any bends that are sharper than the normal curvature of the cable. Check upper and lower cable coupling nuts. If they are loose, tighten them.
- Following the procedure of step 1, again check for clicking noise. If noise condition has been corrected, two more precautionary measures (step 4, 5) are recommended to prevent the cable from being damaged. If noise is still present, proceed to step 6.
- If the plastic tubing on the speedometer cable casing runs all the way to the ferrule at the transmission end, slide it 6-inches toward the speedo meter and tape the upper end to the cable casting to hold it in place. This will prevent cable failure due to water collecting and freezing in the lower end of the casing.
- Install speedometer cable gravel deflector, Gr. 4.342 Part No. 1167077, see Figure 59, if the car is not already equipped with this part.
The deflector prevents damage to the cable from stones and also prevents ice from accumulating on the cable.
- If clicking noise is still present after cable has been straightened and coupling nuts have been checked for tightness, remove the speedometer cable assembly and replace with the proper part as follows:
Cable and Casing Number
70 Series Gr. 4.342 Part No. 1583313
50 Series Dynaflow Gr. 4 .342 Part No. 1583313
50 Series Synchro. Gr. 4 .342 Part No. 1583573
INSTRUCTIONS FOR REMOVING AND REPLACING SPEEDOMETER CABLE ASSEMBLY:
- Disconnect battery ground strap.
- Remove left side kick pad and remove cable grommet from shroud.
- Disconnect cable assembly from transmission and remove cable from clip on dash-to-frame brace.
- Remove left inboard defroster hose from air distributor and from defroster nozzle just behind gas gage.
- Remove the left and right direction signal indicator socket assemblies. These are accessible from the driver’s side of the instrument panel.
- Remove the three illuminating lamps and the headlamp beam indicator lamp from the back side of the speedometer.
- Remove the gas gage and left ash tray.
- Mask along the dash panel along chrome strip beneath speedometer head.
- Remove the two speedometer mounting nuts.
- Pull the speedometer out of the panel far enough to make the cable coupling nut accessible. Disconnect the cable from the speedometer. Use care to avoid damaging the instrument panel paint.
- Check end play of speedometer drive shaft at brass bushing. Maximum amount is .004″. Minimum is .002″. Also turn the bronze bushing on head ten complete revolutions. If any sticking or roughness is felt, repair of head is necessary.
- Before installing the new cable assembly, check to make certain that felt dampening washer is installed as shown in following sketch. To install the new cable assembly, reverse the procedure for removal of cable assembly, making certain cable is well lubriplated. After positioning the speedometer in the instrument panel, but before installing speedometer mounting nuts, recheck for noise following the procedure outlined in step 1. If speedometer noise is still present, the cause is undoubtedly the speedometer head and it should be removed and sent to an authorized repairman for correction.
1954 SPEEDOMETER CABLE LENGTH CORRECTION
SPEEDOMETER CABLE CUTTING LENGTH
On Page 10-83, Paragraph 10-58 of the 1954 Shop Manual, speedometer cable cutting lengths for the 1954 cars are incorrectly listed. Please change your Shop Manuals to read according to the following table:
Speedometer cable length should be:
Series Cutting Length Overall length With Tip Installed
40-60-M/100 68″ 68 5/8″
50 Synchromesh 70″ 71 1/8″
50 Dynaflow 73″ 73 5/8″
70 73” 73 5/8″
1954 ALL SERIES
In a few cases, field complaints of excessive distributor noise or unsteady operation have been traced to loose center bearings in two- piece breaker plates. Samples submitted indicate this condition to be caused by an unusual stack-up of parts tolerances which prevented proper tightening when the bearing was spun over during factory assembly.
In order to eliminate the possibility of loose center bearings due to parts tolerances, a staking operation has been added. After being spun over; each bearing now is staked at three points 120 degrees apart, assuring proper tightness in all cases.
Because of the type of parts involved, it is recommended that no attempt be made in service to shake loose center bearings of the simple spun-over construction. Distributor noise due to a loose center bearing usually should be eliminated by replacement of the breaker plate assembly.